Month: September 2021

The day began with a trip to the bakery.  A fitting start to a day in Cooke City aka Cookie City.  It was a popular and crowded bakery.  Everyone stocked up for a couple of days except Larry.

Today was the last trip through Yellowstone.  Our van traveled through the Northeast entrace along with the corvette club.  We thought the van fit in well with the corvette club but they kept trying to drive away from us. 

The van made its way through the Lamar Valley.  The Lamar Valley is where one often sees animals.  As you drive through the valley, one sees cars pulled over with binoculars and long range cameras.  We would often pull over and ask the camera people what they saw.  Surprisingly the answer was often “Nothing”.

We did see eight herds of buffalo.  One herd surrounded the car and crossed in front of us.

We began a hike called the Yellowstone River hike. TripAdvisor said that the first 250 feet are ascending and a little difficult. The trail ascent is actually two tenths of a mile.

After driving through the park, Debbie now believes one needs to take a test to be a tourist otherwise banned from the park.  Here is an example of a group that would fail that test. One tourists let’s call him Harold got out of a van and started clicking and making noises to attract a buffalo’s attention.  Harold stood next to Larry and was somewhat alarmed Larry who offered the suggestion that Harold not get the buffalo’s attention.  The rest of the van then started asking Larry questions about the petrified tree.  Larry made up an explanation that the van believed.  After Larry, walked away from his tour group, Harold threw a rock at the buffalo.  Luckily, Harold had a bad arm.  Joyce yelled at Harold to stop. 

So, Harold would fail as a tourist because:

• Tried to call a buffalo over
• Thought Larry was a tour guide  (this one is questionable)
• Threw a rock at an animal

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We also saw our first black bear.

We made it so Mammoth where Ft. Yellowstone is located.  Educational Moment:  Fort Yellowstone was a US Army fort, established in 1891 at  Mammoth. Yellowstone was designated in 1872 but the  Interior Department was unable to effectively manage the park. Administration was transferred to the Army in August 1886 to the War Department. The army administered the park until 1918 when it was transferred to the newly created National Park Service. We walked through the area and saw elk next to the building. 

We had a bit of excitement when an elk female, baby and male ran through the field close to the parking lot.  The ranger got his bullhorn (Debbie wants one now) and shouted at the people to get in their car or on the porch and to do it now.  Larry was caught in between the porch and car.  Our van pulled up next to Larry, threw open the door, Larry jumped in and they took off like a race car from a pit stop.

We spent the night in Livingston.

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We left Cody via the Chief Joseph scenic byway.  It is a 46-mile scenic drive in Wyoming. It follows the route taken by Chief Joseph as he led the Nez Perce Indians out of Yellowstone and into Montana in 1877 during their attempt to flee the U.S. calvary and escape into Canada.   The US government was trying to force the Nez Perce onto a reservation in a different area from where they lived.  The Nez Perce wanted to join the Sioux led by Sitting Bull to escape to Canada. They ended up surrendering about 50 miles from Canada.

At the end of the scenic byway, the group turned on to Beartooth highway.  The Beartooth Highway is a section of U.S. Route 212 in Montana and Wyoming passing over the Beartooth Pass in Wyoming at 10,947 feet above sea level.  Along the way, we saw signs for “Open range loose cattle”  and bicycle riders spread out miles along the road.

The group did run into some construction with a 30-minute delay.  Biker Mark tried to skirt the line and was reprimanded much to the delight of the car  The car did feel bad for bikers on the ride.  It was uphill. 

Debbie was very offended by a family feeding chipmunks.  The mother actually poked the chipmunk.  What happened to don’t feed the animals?

The drive had some spectacular views and we stopped a lot. 

The day ended in Cooke City.  (Much to Debbie’s disappointment) She thought it was Cookie City.

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Today, we were on the road by 7:30 AM leaving Jackson Hole. As we drove away, Debbie heard crunching in the back. Jerry was eating the last ice cream drumstick. No ice cream left behind.

We were heading to Casper so went back to Yellowstone.  After mile one, we pulled over to tussle with the gypsy guide. Our car doesn’t have Bluetooth and our Gypsy’s gets in a snit.

On the way, we saw a herd of Buffalo. There should have been great views of the Tetons but it was too hazy from the California fires’ smoke. We continued on to the south entrance of Yellowstone and out the east gate.

Once we left the park, we took the Buffalo Bill Cody scenic byway. (well I guess that is where Cody Wyoming got its name. The Route is known for rock formations, and wildlife.

Bear sighting! We saw a mother grizzly and her cub.  Debbie was vigilant in how fast she could retreat to the car but figured she could scramble in a car faster than some of the other people. The bear’s name was Roxanne. How do we know the name?  We learned this from retirees whose hobby is bear watching. They are bear chaser (get it like storm chasers.

We stopped at Buffalo Bill’s Pahaska tepee hunting lodge. Fun fact:  This was Buffalo Bill’s hunting lodge.  The site for Pahaska Tepee was marked with an ax by Buffalo Bill. It is about 50 miles west of Cody in the Absaroka Mountains.  Pahaska Tepee was named at the suggestion of Buffalo Bill’s Lakota friend, Iron Tail. Pahaska probably comes from “pahinhonska,” Buffalo Bill’s Lakota name, which means long hair of the head. Tepee is Lakota for lodge. The name is literally Long Hair’s lodge. We would like to show you a picture of the lodge but took a picture of the wrong building.

We stopped at the Bill Cody dam which was free. Bonus!  Another fun fact:  The original name of the river was Stinking Water.  It was changed to Shoshone in 1901 to attract more tourists. 

Next stop was the Heart Mountain camp. This camp is where 14,000 Japanese American citizens were interned during World War II after Pearl Harbor. They were held in a camp surrounded by barbed wire with armed guard towers. It is a sad incident in American history.

We ended today at the Holiday in Lodge in Casper Wyoming. We ate dinner – guess where? Another Chinese buffet called the Chinese Family Buffett.

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Another early hike, around String Lake.  It was a beautiful lake with beautiful views.  The hike went around the lake.  Not too difficult and less crowded as it was later in the month.  We saw few kids on the trail since school has startedl.  There was some difficulty finding the car for some of us.

After lunch, Debbie and Joyce went shopping in Jackson.  Surprisingly, they bought nothing.  It’s a great place to shop if you like western décor and have plenty of money.

Jackson has Elk Arches in several places around town.  Fun Fact:  To make an elk antler arch obviously antlers are needed.  The National Elk Refuge is down the street from the Town Square. With an estimated local elk population herd of 11,000 or roughly an elk for every person in Jackson, the antlers come straight from the valley.  The male elk grow antlers to impress the female elk and to fight with other males, which they hope the females are paying attention to. Testosterone makes them grow and then drop off. Antlers are made of bone and can grow up to an inch a day. Elk naturally shed their antlers when their testosterone drops. During antler shedding season you pretty much can’t walk on the elk refuge without tripping over an antler..

Tip of the Day:  Bring plenty of money if shopping in Jackson Hole.

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Today was a hike at Taggart Lake in Grand Tetons. We began our hike at 7:30 AM. Another early start. We decided to hike a combination of Taggart and Bradley Lake. At roughly 225 acres, Bradley Lake is the smallest of the chain lakes that lie at the base of the Teton Range. Once we got to Bradley Lake, the view was a little disappointing. We almost missed it. The hike continued around Taggart Lake. The Taggart Lake Trail is an easy, out and back trail that offers visitors some of the best views of the Teton Range. The hike had great pictures. The lake was still and reflective.

After lunch, we visited Mormon’s Row. What is Mormon’s Row? The Mormons, sent parties from the Salt Lake Valley to establish new communities and support their expanding population. Mormon homesteaders, who settled close to Jackson, built their farms to share labor and community, a stark contrast with the isolation typical of many western homesteads. These settlers established a community named Grovont known today as “Mormon Row.”

At the end of the day, we had hiked 6 plus miles. On the way back, we saw “the Land of Deliciousness” so stopped.. Do you know what this meant? Yes, Blizzards for everyone and no, no pictures exist. DQ, Land of Deliciousness.

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Today was one of the Grand Tetons most popular hikes. It involved a boat trip and hike around Jenny Lake.  Educational Moment: Named for the Shoshone wife of a trapper, Jenny Lake sits at the base of Cascade Canyon in Grand Teton National Park. A popular hike is Hidden Falls which is a 100ft cascading waterfall. One can choose to hike around the southern lakeshore 4.8 mile round trip or ride the shuttle 1 mile round trip. Which do you think Debbie voted for? It is important to get to the lake early for parking and to catch the boat which takes you to the starting point.

We got a parking place. Check. Unfortunately, we had to wait in line for the boat. We had to wait long enough for someone to discuss taking the longer route. (It was not Debbie. She just pretended that she did not hear the conversation). Luckily, an additional boat was put into service.

The boat arrived at the Hidden Falls trailhead and boat people took off like it was the Amazing Race. We did not but we did hike to Hidden Falls with many other people. After the Hidden Falls victory, we were feeling good and proceeded on to Inspiration point. (Another popular hike with stunning views. ) Unfortunately uphill for most of the hike. Inspiration Point was the turnaround point. Unfortunately, Larry and Jerry did not get the destination memo so they proceeded on. Debbie and Joyce waited at Inspiration point for the other two to come back. Larry and Jerry saw a moose. Larry swears the made eye contact pictures of a moose and they are friends now. Debbie and Joyce watched people at the point take pictures and learned many new poses. Debbie wants to try out the new poses but refuses to jump on the trail for a picture. Once reunited, we were able to hike down and catch the boat immediately.

We spent the rest of the day at various park sights. For the day, we hiked more than 6 miles.

Tip for the day: Take the boat

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Today we left Yellowstone but before leaving their was more to see in Yellowstone. The first stop was Kepler cascades. This is a three-tiered cascade that drops over 50 feet as the Firehole River flows North. Next was on to the west thumb geyser basin which is located along the shore of Yellowstone Lake.

We left Yellowstone for the Grand Tetons. Did you know that the Grand Tetons are only 50 miles from Yellowstone? Debbie did not. We passed the continental divide and tried throwing water out the window to see which way it flowed (not really). Once we reached the Grand Tetons, we made lots of overlook sites and headed for Jackson Hole. Inside the park, we took the Lake trail hike. You can see how the lake receded in the pictures.

FYI – The valley is Jackson Hole but the town is Jackson. We made it to Jackson and ate Chinese food for dinner. We lasted 9 days before we ate Chinese Food maybe a vacation record.

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Yesterday, we learned about the different geothermal types in Yellowstone. Remember? Geysers, hot springs, fumaroles, and mud pots. Today, we saw them in a great wayl

We ate our breakfast and were on the road early. We headed toward the lower and midway geyser basins and began seeing some awesome sights. We saw a wolf traveling through the basins. We stood at one geyser and watched another go off from a distance. The Park Services estimate the times that geysers will erupt but maybe off by several minutes or hours. We rushed over but missed it.

We drove to the Old Faithful area and began walking the Upper Basis trying to get to the Grand Geyser before it erupted and not have another miss. Cultural Moment: Grand Geyser is the tallest predicted geyser in the world with many eruptions reaching about 200 feet. The eruptions last about 10-12 minutes. 

Grand Geyser went off just as the group got close. There was some running involved. Debbie is faster than she looks.

Once we had seen one geyser, we were ready to get serious and hiked to Riverside Geyser. The geyser shoots steam and water to heights of 75 feet in an arch over the river, sometimes causing rainbows.  We saw some spectacular hot springs and then settled in for the eruption. We were told when the left pool starts to bubble it will erupt. Well that was sort of correct and we heard way more about fellow tourists than we wanted to during the hour wait. After awhile, the water started to bubble and eventually went off about 20 minutes after the predicted time. Once it erupted it went off for 22 minutes.

We went to Old Faithful Inn to sit on the balcony and watch. Unfortunately, Larry missed it standing in line for a drink. To console ourselves, we went to the Old Faithful buffet and ate lots of food. After the buffet, we finally saw Old Faithful erupt.

We ended the night staying at Old Faithful Cabins. If you stood in the driveway you could see Old Faithful. We did not do this as Larry didn’t know where we were and Debbie still thought a bear would get her.

At the end of the day, Debbie was impressed with geysers and Mud pots. Debbie also likes how people applaud at the end of an eruption.

Travel trip: We forgot yesterday’s – stay inside the park if you can. Today’s tip: There is a geyser hotline for the times that geyser should erupt.

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We left West Yellowstone today and moved into Yellowstone National Park for a couple of days. We were in the park at 8:10 A.M. Another jaw dropper for those who know Debbie. The first stop was Gibbons Falls followed by Norris Basin. Cultural Moment: Norris Geyser Basin is the hottest, oldest, and most dynamic of Yellowstone’s thermal areas. It contains the Back Basin and Porcelain Basin. Porcelain Basin has no trees and bare ground and boardwalk trail accesses this area. We went to the Porcelain Basin first and it was a little difficult to see through the steam since it was so early. The Back Basin is more heavily wooded with features scattered throughout the area. A 1.5-mile trail of boardwalks and bare ground encircles this part of the basin. So by 10:00, the group had hiked about 2 miles.

What did we learn?

What is a geyser? (Debbie wanted you to know since she spent two miles walking around them) It is a hot spring in which water intermittently boils, sending a column of water and steam into the air.

What is a mud pot? a hot spring filled with mud agitated by venting gases. Debbie seems to be fascinated with these and it is difficult to explain why one would take several pictures of mud but she did.

What is a paint pot? A mud pot with color. Oh, good more mud pictures for Debbie

What is a Hot Spring? A spring that has real hot water? Well, almost – Springs produced by the geothermal heated groundwater.

What is a fumarole? The hottest emission. It is a hole in a volcanic region from which hot gases and vapor escape. It turns the water into steam.

We ended up at lower and upper terrace of Mammoth. We were able to go to the Upper Terrace late in the day and it was awesome.

We went to several areas during the day where the pictures do more justice than words.

That night we stayed at Mammoth Cabins in the park. At night, an elk herd came up by the main hotel. It is mating season and we heard the bull bugle to his harem.

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Today was our last day outside Yellowstone Park. We decided to go to Harriman State Park in Idaho. It is famous for fishing. (So the park told us).   It was formally owned by Union Pacific railroad investors from 1902 to 1977,  There Is also a historic village. It was built by the owner of the Pacific Railway as a summer vacation home. If you’re an angler you can rent one of these homes to stay at. This is supposed to be a great angler fishing spot.

We saw lots of people walking around with fishing poles. Debbie says it didn’t really look much like a lake or a river to her.. The group somehow convinced Debbie to walk around the lake. She wasn’t too excited by this as there was not a lot of trees and not a lot of shade.  She mostly just walked around in the sun, sweated a lot and became grumpy.

Debbie was promised ice cream if she would complete the walk with a better attitude maybe even huckleberry ice cream.  Debbie is nothing if not goal driven so the ice cream got her up to complete the walk. She did give everyone in a group a stink eye and required Jerry and Larry to carry  bear spray after yesterday‘s bear spray demonstration.

If you’re an angler it’s probably a great place to go. If you’re not but like Debbie and used to fishing under trees off the bank you may not be as impressed. We actually never saw anyone catch a fish while we were there. The fishermen all said that they were going to catch a fish but no one actually had.  (Is this a fish tale?)

Tip of the day: Harrington State Park for angler fishing. Bring a hat for the sun and maybe ice cream for cranky travelers

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