2018-10-15 Cliffs of Donegal

We are going to finish this trip blog if it takes until 2020.  The clock is ticking as  a new trip begins in February.  Joyce and Jerry have already begun their trip.  Six days are left.

Our travelers were last at Larry’s birthday meal.   The next day the group headed for the Cliffs of Donegal.  They arrived at the parking lot to discover sheep.  (Debbie thinks that these are probably her sheep as they are pink and she would have pink sheep if she had to pick a color.  So she claims all pink sheep )  The parking lot has a road continuing onward with a gate.  There is a lot of discussion about do you drive through the gate to the higher parking area or walk.  The next stop actually begins the hike.  Joyce supplies the information that it is 2.5 miles to the next stop so this could involve at least a 5 mile walk round trip.  While the view is great is it 2.5 miles great?  Pretty much the four stand by the road and look at the gate.  (Debbie’s sheep don’t supply any tips).  They stare at people coming in and out of the gate trying to decide why some walk and some drive.  This involves serious discussion as they gather around the gate.

They begin talking to a lady that works at the US state department who is also staring at the gate.  Let’s call her Sue Ellen.  Sue Ellen decides to go for it so the four run and jump in their car to follow Sue Ellen. (They think she might have some sway if they get busted and are willing to throw Sue Ellen under the bus their leader).  Plus they only have to close the gate not open it.

Debbie is thrilled on the way to the next stop as it only goes up for 2.5 miles and she sees people walking on the road looking mad (because they made the wrong choice and walked).

Once the group made it to the next parking lot and shared high fives all around, they hiked part way along the Donegal cliffs.  The views were great but they turned around after an hour or so because they did not bring their lunch.  Each step took them further from the food.  They returned to the entrance and discovered how to make giant shadow puppets.  It was difficult to leave the shadow puppets and Debbie’s sheep.

 
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2018-10-14 Happy Birthday

Today is Larry’s birthday.  The birthday celebration began with a trip to Glenveagh Castle.  The group felt that if Larry lived in Ireland that he would probably want to live in a castle.   Larry agreed.  The Hard Hitting Reporter (HHR) showed up for the birthday celebration.

HHR:  Happy Birthday, Larry.   Could you tell us something about the castle?

Larry:  When we drove up, we couldn’t see anything.   Joyce made us  encouraged us to start hiking. After we walked for awhile, we found a trail to the castle.  It is set in a valley and has a great garden.

Jerry:  Joyce had arranged for a deer as a surprise birthday gift but the deer was really hard to see.

Joyce:  The castle sits on some 16,500 hectares  of County Donegal mountains, lakes, glens and woods, with a large herd of red deer, Glenveagh Castle is a 19th Century, castellated mansion built between 1867 and 1873.

HHR:  What is a hectare?

Debbie:  No one wants to know that.  It is just a whole lot of land that the castle people just took away from the little people.  Sort of like when the Olympics went to China.

HHR:  I think that you are getting off track.

Debbie:  I think that you are off track.

Larry:   Ladies, remember that it is my birthday.  It was an interesting castle.  Sure, I would like to live in it but it is a park now.

Debbie:  We did have hot chocolate while waiting for the tour.  It was just what we needed before the tour.  The final owner was the inventor of Tabasco Sauce.  He had many celebrities visit such as Clarke Gable and Marilyn Monroe.  We knew that we would fit right in and would have been invited.
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HHR:  Where did you go after the tour?

Jerry:  We took the Horn Point Loop drive.

HHR:  An easy drive?

Joyce:  No, it was a narrow winding road in the middle of nowhere.  We thought that we were lost.  I had to keep asking the navigator for help and she had a difficult time.

Larry:  Once we got there. it was a stunning walk from the parking lot.   A few trodden paths lead from the lot.  You could walk to a Signal Tower built during the Napoleonic Wars to warn of possible French invasion. We did not see any French so the coast was clear.  (Get it coast was clear).

Jerry:  The track was quite wet as it is on peat or grass until you get nearer the cliff edge. There are rules you should follow. It was windy up there and it is very important to keep children under close supervision at all times.  Do not go too close to the edge as it is a very long way down.  Do not undertake this walk in bad weather unless you are an experienced hiker.  We had to keep a close eye on Debbie.  She ran to the signal tower to get out of the wind.  I think that she might have scared some of the children at the top.

Debbie:  It was cold up there and some of those kids got in my way.  Luckily, we have hiked in bad weather so mud was not an issue for us.  I embrace the mud.  (Although, Joyce asked if I knew Pig Pen).

HHR:  How did you end the day?

Larry:  It was a dream come true for me.  A birthday dinner at a Chinese restaurant within walking distance of the flat.

2018-10-13 Letterkenny

Today was move day.  The group was headed toward Londonderry.  Debbie had the misguided idea that they were actually going to stay in Londonderry.    Londonderry is the second largest city in Northern Ireland.  As the group got closer to Londonderry, they noticed that the “London” portion of Londonderry was often spray painted over on signs.  Irish Republic supporters call the city Derry.  The group suspected that the spray painters were supporters of the Irish Republic.

As usual the day was rainy.   At one point, the GPS led the group through the narrowest streets in Londonderry.  Debbie tried to crawl over into Joyce’s lap during those narrow moments but Joyce wasn’t having it.  It turns out that a stop had been contemplated in Londonderry but was scratched due to the weather.  The group proceeded to their final destination which was Letterkenny, a city in Ulster county in the Republic of Ireland.

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2018-10-12 I’m in the Jail House Now

Today was a tour of the famous prison, Crumlin Road Gaol.  History Moment:  Crumlin Road Gaol, is a former prison situated on the Crumlin Road in north Belfast, Northern Ireland. It is a Victorian era prison which opened in 1845 and closed in 1996.  Men, women and children were jailed here.  The prison has multiple wings and the location looked very familiar.   (It looked like many movie sets).   It was a sobering tour especially the execution wing.  The execution room was hidden behind a bookcase next to the prisoner’s room.  IRA and loyalists were both housed in the jail and divided by wings.  The two groups had alternate times for the gym and dining area.  There were bombings in the jail between the two groups.  Hunger strikes by the IRA were also begun in this prison in the 70s.

After the tour, the four went to St. George’s market for lunch.  Cultural Moment:  St George’s Market is the last surviving Victorian covered market in Belfast. It is full of food which they viewed from the 2nd floor cafe.  It is very hippie like with music from the 70s.

They then went to Victoria Square for the view.
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Debbie did keep humming “I’m in the Jailhouse Now” by the Soggy Bottom Boys.

2018-10-11 Belfast Castle

The day began with rain. (Sound familiar?)  When the rain let up, the group decided to visit Belfast castle which was close to the flat and drivable (no nervous breakdowns over the wrong side of the road and plenty of free parking.  Remember those pesky parking tickets.)

Debbie thought a castle would be historic and interesting.  Maybe the Outlander would be there?  Debbie’s expectations were not quite met.  There was a castle there in the 11th century and then a newer one built in the 12th century.  Then the castle burned down.  Hmmmm.  So, they waited awhile to rebuild (about 600 years since the Belfast castle seems to have bad luck).  The castle was rebuilt in a deer park and finally given to the city.

According to legend, Belfast Castle is safe as long as there is a (preferably white) cat residing there. (Guess the ones that burned down didn’t know about this cat thing).  This myth led to the creation of the “Cat Garden” right next to the stately pile on the slopes of Cave Hill.  The garden is supposed to have 9 cats.  Debbie always up for a challenge ran around counting cats.  She managed to involve Larry in the hunt but they only found 8.

The castle and cats are now a big wedding venue.  Debbie and Joyce pranced down the back stair case. and think that they made a spectacular entrance to the cat garden leading into their hike.  Unfortunately, it began to rain during the hike putting an end to spectacular entrances and the cat hunt.  (It is hard to count cats in the rain).
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2018-10-10 Hiking

After hearing about the Troubles, the group decided that they needed a nature day.   Luckily, the HHR was available for questions.

HHR:  How was the day?

Larry:  It started out cold and very windy.  Debbie went in full 4 layer mode.

Debbie:  We were going on a rope bridge.  I was afraid that it would be blowing in the wind.

Joyce:  I had the day planned out.

HHR:  Where did you go?

Jerry:  We went to Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (locally pronounced carrick-a-reedy).  It is a famous rope bridge in Northern Ireland. The bridge links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrickarede. It spans 66 ft and is (98 ft) above the rocks below.

Joyce:  It is so crowded that you have to buy a ticket and are assigned a time to cross.  It was hard but I had my group there when it opened so we didn’t really have to wait.

Debbie:  Joyce did make us run to beat a bus.    It is a good thing that Larry and I trained before we went on this trip.  We were able to bypass the bus load of retirees by fast walking.

HHR:  What exactly is the island?

Debbie:  Well, the definition of an island is….

HHR:  Really?

Debbie:  Oh, okay – Salmon fishermen used it for more that 300 years.  Now, the big deal is just to walk across the bridge.  It is a one way bridge and the guard yells at you if you stop on the bridge.

HHR:  What exactly does he yell?

Debbie:  He yells “Get off the bridge”.  Some people wanted to pose for pictures on the bridge.  I tried to help the guard by jumping up and down on the bridge.  I think he liked that.

HHR:  What did you do next?

Larry:  We ate lunch before we left.  We did need to anchor  our food to keep the food from blowing off the table.

Debbie:  Joyce told us that was part of the ambiance.

HHR:  Was that your day?

Larry:  No, next we went to the Giant’s Causeway.   The most characteristic and unique feature of the site is the exposure of some 40,000 large, regularly shaped polygonal columns of basalt in perfect horizontal sections, forming a pavement. This dramatic sight has inspired legends of giants striding over the sea to Scotland.

Jerry:  It was pretty impressive.  How often can you work polygonal into a sentence about hiking?

Debbie:  We could have taken a bus.  Sometimes it is hard being Les Cheap girl especially if you wear 4 layers of clothes.

Joyce:  We had an audio guide but noticed that Debbie kept looking the wrong way and taking pictures of odd things.

Debbie:  I really don’t want to talk about this.  40,000 columns threw me off.  You know, people were not supposed to be on those rocks.  There was a sign about staying off the rocks.   I was taking pictures to help security.

Larry:  We ended our day by going to Dark Hedges.  We had to give Debbie some ice cream since she didn’t get to ride the bus.

HHR:  What is Dark Hedges?

Jerry:  Well, I am glad that you asked.   Dark Hedges is actually an avenue of beech trees along a road and it forms an atmospheric tunnel where cars pass through.  Game of Thrones was filmed there.

Debbie:  Technically, cars can’t go down the road because people are all over the road taking pictures.  It is also not that dark.  I didn’t feel any atmospheric tunnel.   I walked down the middle of the road giving stink-eyes out.

Larry:  We think Debbie may have over indulged in hiking today.

2018-10-09 The Troubles

The group left the Bed and Breakfast at 6:30 am to catch the ferry to Ireland.  It was a few hours ride and gave them time to eat breakfast.  (Debbie did see some napping).  Once they landed, they went to their flat in Belfast.  The flat had a younger theme which incorporates purple, pink and zebra print.  The pictures give you a true sense of the apartment dynamics.

Debbie and Larry were excited when they found that the flat was right next to a new gas station (think Circle K).  It was a combined grocery and gas store.  Debbie used the ATM to withdraw some British pounds but found it was the Bank of Ulster notes which confused her.  Joyce tried to convince Debbie that it was Funny Money.  Debbie panicked and frantically tapped out an inquiry on her phone.   Interesting fact (especially if people are telling you it is Funny Money).  The notes are legal currency, but technically not legal tender anywhere (including Northern Ireland itself).  Issuing banks have been granted legal rights to issue currency, and back the notes with deposits at the Bank of England.  Confused?  Just know that it spends like regular money.

Next was the traditional “Let’s ride an exploratory bus” to give the group time to introduce themselves to every person within 50 feet of the bus stop while they figure out which bus to get on.  Eventually,  off they went to City Hall on the bus after having made numerous friends.  (Tourists on a city bus are a rare sight).  The four ate lunch at  City Hall and then took a tour.  Debbie was sad that they did not have hot dogs available.  She did however get the hardest piece of bread possible.  (Debbie says that you could build a house with it and those Irish people are tough to eat that bread).

Now, we are going to deviate here from our regular format to talk about “The Troubles”.  We did not have a good feel for “The Troubles”, Northern Ireland or the feelings that still exist in today’s world.  What are “The Troubles”?  It is Northern Ireland’s sectarian strife that happened almost 40 years ago.  It was between the Catholic Irish nationalists who favor unification with the the Irish Republic  to the south and the Loyalist Protestant paramilitaries who supported continued British rule.  It was rather shocking to see how uninformed that we were and sad that this is still an issue.

TO try to understand the Troubles, we took a black taxi tour of sites involving the Troubles.  We think that most of the black taxi drivers are former IRA members.  The tour began with Jason, our driver, telling us that in 1988 he was outside talking with a friend and was shot 3 times by the nationalists.  Jason then went on to give us a tour of important sites in the 1970’s troubles.  We didn’t know that there is a Peace Wall that separates the Roman Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods that still exists.  We remembered the hunger strikes from the 80’s but it is still a living breathing issue in Ireland.  Did you know that the last major hurdle for Brexit is the Irish border?

On a final note,  Jason and his taxi are sometimes used in movies.  He recently finished a movie with Blake Lively.  He has a picture with Blake.  We are certain that he will be showing other people his picture with us.  He very kindly took us back to our flat so we did not have to make more bus friends on that day.

What Happened?

If you are a faithful reader,  you may have noticed a stop in the then blogs.  Our travelers have been left stranded in Scotland. When we last saw them, Larry was thinking of starting a curling club.

Debbie and Larry returned home and the blogs fell to the side for a while.  Since they have returned, Debbie and Larry seem to fall asleep about 8 o’clock every night.

Stay tuned for the Irelands both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.   Visit the Emerald Isle with us over the next few days  This includes visits to Belfast and Dublin.  Learn about the “Troubles”, go hiking and see lots of old buildings.
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2018-10-08 Ancestry

Today was a move day.   Les Cheap Girls had a Scotland Freedom Pass and wanted to get full value.

HHR:  Where did you go?

Joyce:  Well, we wanted to get full value of our tickets and there was a castle on the way out.  We stopped at Dumbarton Castle.

HHR:  What was the castle like?

Joyce:  Well, it was cold and windy.  There are a lot of steps that you hadve to climb.  One of the workmen told me that it was miserable and he wouldn’t climb to the top.  He said “Don’t do it.”

Debbie:  There is a reason that workman can’t roll with us.  We decided to go a little way up.

Larry:  Before we knew what was happening, we were half way up to the top.

Jerry:  There was some good views but we kept heading up.

Debbie:  Some of the steps had no sides.  I almost got blown off the steps.

Larry:  We went all the way to the top and posed with the flags.

HHR:  Then where did you go?

Joyce:  We found out that Debbie had some Scottish ancestors that were from Paisley Renfrewshire Scotland.

HHR:  Close relatives?

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Joyce:  I found an abbey that would have been around when those grandparents were around.  I took them to the Abbey and got this lady to give us a tour.

Debbie:  The only issue was that I couldn’t actually understand most of what the lady said.  I did not inherit the accent.  I think that she told us some good stuff but I don’t know what she said.  I think that she said I was probably from royal blood.  I noticed that everybody else in our group kept backing away.

Larry:  We liked the gift shop.  It was hard following Debbie around.  It made me hungry.  I convinced everyone to eat in the car.

HHR:  Where did you go after you ate?

Jerry:  We headed for the B&B close to our early morning ferry.

Debbie:  We did make it to the B&B.  Boy,was this lady impressive.  She was going to make us duck eggs in the morning.

Larry:  She had snacks for us and she made Debbie hot chocolate.  We wanted to stay there longer.

Joyce:  She even made dinner reservations for us so we could watch the curling club.

Larry:  I liked the curling.  I think that I could do it.

Debbie:  Larry says that he might start a curling club.

 

2018-10-07 Glasgow

It was another wet and cold day, so the group went to Glasgow.  Les Cheap girls found a free museum, the Hunterian.  Cultural Moment:  This is a museum created by donations from Dr. William Hunter.  (Get it Hunterian).  He was a medical doctor and had many other collections.  Dr. Hunter donated all his collections to the University of Glasgow.  Other people also donated their collections.  As far as the group can figure, if you went to the  University of  Glasgow and have a collection that you want to donate then you can.    There are some odd collections.  So, if Larry had graduated from U of G and wanted to donate his spoon collection that he had from years ago then he could.  (Debbie says don’t give him any spoons – that ship has sailed).

Second stop was the Riverside museum in Glasgow.  This is a transport museum. With over 3,000 objects on display there’s everything from skateboards to locomotives,  prams and cars.  Again, it was free.  Les Cheap girls rule.
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