Category: Personal

HHR:  Were you ready to leave Budapest?

Larry:  Well, I was a little sad to leave as I knew where I was.

HHR:  What is your next destination?

Larry:  I am going to let Jerry answer that one

Jerry::  Larry, we talked about this.  Krakow.

Larry:  Jerry, is right.  Krakow.  (I like for my entourage to feel useful.   I really knew the answer)

HHR:  Where exactly is Krakow?

Larry:  Romania.  No wait, I know this  – Croatia

Joyce:  I’ll take it.  Poland and Larry, I am not part of your entourage.

HHR:  How did you get there?

Joyce:  Larry is unavailable to answer any more questions right now.  He is fetching his maps from the room.  We took a 8 hour train trip across several countries.

Larry:  Each time you went through a new country the conductors changes and they checked your ticket

HHR:  How was the trip?

Joyce:  Well, it was long.

Debbie:  Our car was pretty quiet until we picked up a group of 15 to 20 Polish teenagers.

Joyce:  The man next to us came alive.  He had been sleeping and sat up like a bolt of lightening had struck him.

Jerry:  He took it upon himself to teach the teenage girls English.

Debbie:  I just want to point out that the man was sitting in the wrong seat and the wrong car.

HHR:  How did he try to teach them English?

Larry:  Through questions.  It was very interactive.

HHR:  Could you give us an example of the questions?

Debbie:  Sure, I can.  Where are you from? How old are you? Where are you going?  Do you know any songs? Do you think I should go to Prague?  Is that a good place to go?  I am 55 do I look that old?  Do I look good?  I just wanted to go to another country today so I took the money that my friend gave me and chose Prague.  I don’t really have a job.  Let’s all sing.  Let’s sing the Polish national anthem. 

HHR:  Did he go to Krakow with you?

Larry:  No, we did some car switching and he got moved to the Prague car where he should have been sitting.

Debbie:  I told you that he was on the incorrect car.

HHR:  Anything else interesting happen?

Joyce:  Well, I did discover that the toilets go straight to the track.

Jerry:  We are thinking that Polish Train system may not be as advanced as Amtrak.

Debbie:  I advised the group to not visit the facilities while stopped at a station.

HHR:  How did your trip end?

Larry:  I was very excited that the train station ended in the largest mall ever.

Joyce:  I told the other 3 to sit at the mall while I went for the keys from the leasing company.

Jerry:  I did sit at the mall just as Joyce suggested.

Larry:  I bought some socks. 

Debbie: Does this mean you left your assigned spot, Larry?

Larry: Well, I left looking for you and found some socks.

Debbie:  I got lost.  I asked 61 people where Zara Home is located.  They didn’t know.  I walked around and around staying away from McDonalds which was in the wrong direction.  I was so nervous that Joyce would catch me but yet lost.  I managed to slide in under the line right before Joyce returned but was sweating buckets.  Why are we talking about this?  Why did you bring up the socks?

Joyce: The good news is that everyone made it to the flat that night. I will be keeping my eye on Debbie next time we go into a mall.

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Last day in Budapest. Today a visit to the Pest side of Budapest and a planned visit at the Parliament. Larry had packed away his pocket knife. (He has lost a knife at the Statue of Liberty and Scotland’s Parliament so are hoping for better results)

The group visited several places.

• Dohány Street Synagogue- Cultural Moment: This is the largest synagogue in Europe. It stands on the site of the house where Theodor Herzl, father of modern Zionism, was born. There was a slight hiccup as Debbie did not get tickets early, See the picture of the line.
• Heroes Square – Cultural Moment: one of the major squares in Budapest, Hungary, noted for its iconic statue complex featuring the Seven chieftains of the Magyars and other important Hungarian national leaders, as well as the Memorial Stone of Heroes
• Vajdahunyad Castle is a castle in the City Park of Budapest, Hungary. Cultural Moment: The castle (not really a castle) was built in 1896 as part of the Millennial Exhibition which celebrated the 1,000 years of Hungary since the Hungarian Conquest of the Carpathian Basin in 895. The Hungarians liked it so much that they did not want to tear down the building. The buildings were made into government buildings. Who wouldn’t want a castle for their office. Larry scored a giant pretzel while he was there. (The group won’t have to buy food for days).
• Parliament – Cultural Moment The Hungarian Parliament Building, also known as the Parliament of Budapest after its location, is the seat of the National Assembly of Hungary, a notable landmark of Hungary and a popular tourist destination in Budapest.  There is a tourist entrance but you can’t get in without a ticket. (Hmm. good that Debbie came through with tickets)..

The group had the Buda side sights for today. Joyce knew to ride bus 16. She and Jerry had all access bus tickets but the other two needed to purchase some tickets. Larry and Debbie went in search of bus tickets.

Educational Moment: Hungary is sneaky about their metro / bus tickets.. Here are the rules:

1. If one doesn’t validate their ticket before stepping over a line, then one is fined 16,000 HUF about $50.
2. You can pay 8,000 HUF right away. (Doesn’t that seem fishy? It does say to get a receipt.)
3. If you wait more than 30 days, they double your fine about $100.00
4. It doesn’t matter if you have the ticket, it must be validated
5. If you transfer, you have to walk out and start over again with a new ticket and new validation.

Debbie was scared and determined to have a ticket clutched in her hand. She and Larry went to get tickets (not unlimited) and this nice college age boy came over and volunteered to help Debbie (She really didn’t need the help.) Once they had the tickets, the nice boy asked for money because he was hungry which would have been much more convincing if he hadn’t been eating a pastry at the time. ( Debbie left a tip begrudgingly)

They were able to make Bus 16 and saw lots of sights. (However the validation machine did not work).

1. The outside of Buda/Royal Castle
2. The changing of the guard
3. Fisherman’s Bastion – It really has no historic value but has some great views. The group has trouble with Debbie trying to pose something she is not good at.
4. The Church of the Assumption of the Buda Castle, more commonly known as the Matthias Church is a Roman Catholic church located in the Holy Trinity Square, Budapest. It is a big tourist attraction.
5. Hospital in the Rock Nuclear Museum – is the name given to a hospital created in the caverns under Buda Castle in Budapest in the 1930s, in preparation for the Second World Wars

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Even though Larry and Debbie had been to Budapest 3 times in the last few days, they didn’t really get to visit. (Remember the Romanian adventure?)

They began the Budapest tour with a cruise on the Danube. There were few people on a cruise early in the morning and the cruise provided two drinks. The English translation was also done by a native speaker so check marks for that.

After the cruise, the four went to the Market which our buddy Rick Steves (Everyone carries around his tour guide) really likes. It got a 3 or 2 star. The group felt the market was an overall bust plus the nasty Hungarians charge for the toilets. Rick must like sausage and paprika as that seemed to be the more prevalent items for sale. The group ate in the most expensive tourist eatery there (Joyce thinks Debbie needs to remember that she is a Les Cheap girl. However, Debbie insisted on sitting not standing which limited choices.) The Hungarian goulash was very good and the bathrooms were part of the deal so count that into the mix.

Debbie and Larry were also able to buy a suitcase to send back with Charlie loaded with all the extra stuff they brought. Charlie had graciously volunteered to bring it back. So look out friends and family if you get a yellow suitcase for Christmas. It will be imported from Europe just for you!

They finished off the day with a tour of St. Stephen’s. Cultural Moment: St. Stephen’s Basilica is a Roman Catholic basilica in Budapest, Hungary. It is named in honor of Stephen, the first King of Hungary, whose right hand is housed in the reliquary. 

Debbie thought she missed the whole hand thing but turns out that she took a picture of it but didn’t know what it was.. The hand leads a parade every year. (A fact that we thought you would want to know). Turns out Larry got an even better photo.

Turns out that our flat has no heat. It is probably pay back for Debbie laughing at the people in Zagreb with no heat. She is sorry that she laughed in Zagreb. The landlord did come over the to turn on the heat but it was broken in Debbie and Larry’s room. There were also signs everywhere to be quiet and no parties allowed written in black magic marker. The group had no parties but would have.

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Charlie was able to negotiate a deal for free breakfast in exchange for no heat.  As reported yesterday, the hotel had no heat because well, it just wasn’t the day to turn on the heat.  And no one had any idea when heat day would be but probably in October.  Larry and Debbie on the 2^nd floor fared better than Dan and Charlie on 4.  (Larry tried to turn the air conditioner on.)  Dan got up twice during the night to let the hot water run in the shower for 10 minutes to try to warm the room up.

Some people wonder why the group is searching for Jewish cemeteries. What is the purpose? So a little history below.

Charlie takes pictures of Jewish cemeteries in Eastern Europe and has photographed over 500 Jewish cemeteries.  Charlie speaks English, German and a little Polish.  Dan speaks English, Romanian and French.  He can get by in Spanish and from what we have seen almost any language.  Dan drives and helps question people about the location.  He is also pretty relentless in searching.  The newcomers on this trip, Larry and Debbie, help spot.  Larry has been searching the graveyard for Jewish headstones somewhat successfully.  Debbie has been looking up information on her phone much of which Charlie and Dan already had but not printed.

Here is Charlie’s explanation for what Charlie does. “Each year I travel to eastern Europe to visit places I refer to as “former Jewish sites:”  a synagogue, a bet midrash, a town square surrounded by homes and businesses that were formerly owned by Jews, and always cemeteries.  These sites are found in any of a thousand small towns and villages scattered across eastern Europe.  I go there to make a small record of a vanished culture and to pay respect to that civilization and to its members.  I make no claim to merit as a photographer; rather, I go in order to set my feet on the ground in these places and to bear witness that someone who has no ties of religion or ethnicity or family to a part of the world where terrible things took place nonetheless has a stake in the Shoah. “Here is Charlie’s website , Galician Traces.

Below is a day in the life of the hunters.

They left Zagreb on the way to Budapest with several cemetery stops in mind.  The first stop : Vrvovec.  The Jewish cemetery is reported to be neglected and accessed via private property between a pig sty and and a henhouse.  The guys got a hot lead to go to the tombstone maker.  (Debbie is blogging and it is too cold for her).   They take off until they find a cemetery and pull over on the side of the road.  The assumption is that the house next to the city cemetery is the tombstone maker’s house.  They found a worker that pointed the way to the cemetery (no tombmaker).  It was so overgrown that they could not see any tombstones and take any pictures.  Status:  Found but not able to take pictures.

It is so cold that Larry actually came back to put on pants. (He likes to wear shorts so this is a big concession). He did, however, let in lots of cold air into the car with the doors/hatchback open.  Charlie also left the door open.  Stink eye for all.  Debbie doesn’t do well with cold.

Second stop:  Kvizevei   The hunt began with a museum.  Debbie and Larry are happy to report that they found the museum on foot while Dan guarded the car (The group had no Croatian coins.  The plan was to jump in the car and run away from the parking lot if need be).  Charlie found a woman with a friend (let’s call her Elena) that spoke English.  Elena  walked over to answer questions and agreed to take them to the city cemetery.  They successfully got 5 people in the car with Elena in the front guiding.  She took them to the city cemetery and thought that she might be able to find the private cemetery.  Debbie, Dan and Elena left to go in search of the next cemetery (Sort of an advance team).  Elena found the general area and talked to neighbors.  Elena did it!  She found the cemetery overgrown and in disrepair.  She even wanted to see so went through the high grass.  She was very kind and wanted to help.  She refused any money for helping.  Status:  Found!

Third Stop:  Ludbreg  This cemetery had a Jewish section and was part of the city cemetery.  This is unusual in this part of the world.  Normally there are different cemeteries.  Status:  Found

Fourth Stop:  Varadzie  Here was found a locked Jewish cemetery with a caretaker but he would not let anyone inside the fence.  There wasn’t enough time to follow it up and get to Budapest.  Charlie and Debbie considered a plan of climbing over the fence in two different areas since the caretaker couldn’t get them both at the same time but decided against as Charlie has had a shotgun pointed at him last trip. Status:  Found but not allowed to enter.

The tombstones bear witness to the holocaust.  So many dates in the 40’s, neglect of the cemeteries and few if any Jewish people left in the towns.  

The group traveled on to Budapest where Debbie and Larry left Charlie and Dan. Debbie and Larry met Joyce and Jerry for the second part of their adventure beginning in Budapest. Debbie and Larry missed Dan already as they struggled to figure out where to go. Eventually, Joyce heard them talking as they wandered by the windows. of the flat.

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As Part A of our journey comes to an end our hard hitting reporter (HHR) has some questions for the group:

HHR:  What was your favorite part of the trip?

Ivan (Charlie):  Playing in cemeteries and eating at Taj Mahal in Dubrovnik

Debbie:  Charlie also really liked that Debbie and Larry came along.  I think they are good luck.

HHR:  Debbie, I think that we have already discussed you speaking for everyone.

Debbie:  Do you ever watch VEEP?  Well, I am Ivan  Charlie’s Gary so I can speak.

Larry: Everything, I enjoyed everything. 

Debbie:  Did I tell you that Larry might have a career in politics?

Dan:  Dubrovnik no, make that Romania.  Shout out to my family.

Debbie:  I liked having a driver that knew where he was going.   Sometimes, I am directionally challenged.

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HHR:  What did you like the least?

Larry:  Some of the food was not what I thought it was going to be.

Dan:  Border control.  It slows my ride.

Charlie:  Rain in Dubrovnik and spending the night in a refrigerator

Debbie:  I don’t like turnip greens as part of a meal. I was not happy with all the other tourists and their selfie sticks.  On the upside, I expect that I am in several pictures hanging on some wall in Asia right now.  

HHR:  Where will you go next?

Charlie:  I am going to more cemeteries

Dan:  I am going on a three-day party after I drop everyone off.

HHR:  Oh does this have to do with dropping them off?  Because, I could see how you might like to get away from some of them who shall remain nameless.  Not Larry or Charlie but you know that other one.

Dan:  No of course not.  Debbie has taught me a lot of American slang and she carries a food bag with her full of snacks.

Debbie:  HHR, I think it is time you left.  Larry and I will continue on with Part B of our trip.  We have been to Hungary, Romania, Croatia, Montenegro and Bosnia.  We did not get arrested or leave with a cat.  We found some cemeteries.  We are ready to continue our adventure with Joyce and Jerry.

In a late breaking story, we discover that two of the group were lost in Slip.

HHR (Hard Hitting Reporter): Can you tell us what happened?

Charlie: Well, we stayed in Slip last night where we stayed before.

HHR: Did you get lost going to the hotel?

Charlie: No, not exactly. Debbie and I went to the waterfront to take pictures and shop a little. We needed to be back by 10 am to leave.

HHR: What happened did Debbie do something?

Debbie: Why do you always think that I did something? We started back using Google Maps but it was just wrong.

HHR: Charlie do you feel that the international application used by millions was “Just wrong”?

Charlie: Since I don’t know how to use it, I am going to defer to my sister.

Debbie: See miss HHR, he defers to me. So he agrees it was just wrong. We were doing just fine until the Game of Thrones dragons tried to jump us.

HHR: You know those aren’t real.

Debbie: What? No, I think they were real and carried us several blocks off the map. That is what happened

HHR: What were you going to do if you couldn’t get back?

Charlie: I was going to call a cab

Debbie: I was worried about Larry because I wasn’t sure he knew what city that he was in.

HHR: You did make it back?

Debbie: Yes, I shook my phone really hard and clicked my heels together and Viola!

Charlie: We got back with 5 minutes to spare.

HHR: What did Larry and Dan think?

Debbie: Well, technically, they don’t know about it and we don’t think that you need to tell them.

HHR: What did you do for the rest of the day?

Charlie: We stopped at 2 towns looking for cemeteries. One, we could not find and the other, Karlovac was combined.

Debbie: No Jewish people live there anymore and they needed room at the cemetery so they dug them up to use the land for other graves.

HHR: Where did you stay that night?

Debbie: We stayed in Zagreb at the Hotel Jadran. Our room was fine but Dan and Charlie had no heat. Turns out they don’t turn on the heat until later in the month. Charlie was a little sensitive about this issue while Debbie and Larry were simply oblivious.

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The group began with a bakery to go for breakfast. They started out for the Bosnian border with a test. Each morning, there is a check as to where the group is, where they are going for the day and can one touch their passport. Larry often has trouble with these questions. Today was a day that Dan had to pull over to search the car for a passport. Not saying who.

Once the group passed into Bosnia, Dan took a shortcut. Dan swears that he knows right where he is all the time. Unfortunately, the shortcut didn’t quite work out. A couple of key turns were missed but the group backtracked and were found. ( Does this mean that Dan knew this?)

History Moment: The Bosnian War was an international armed conflict that took place in Bosnia and Herzegovina between 1992 and 1995. The war started in 1992,and ended in 1995. The main belligerents were the forces of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina and those of the self-proclaimed Bosnian Serb and Bosnian Croat entities within Bosnia and Herzegovina, Republika Srpska and Herzeg-Bosnia. The war was part of the breakup of Yugoslavia.

While driving through the countryside, one could see evidence of the war. Abondoned buildings,, damaged buildings, etc. The group reached Stolac with little incident other then Charlie claiming a Bosnian rock for his collection. (Debbie did not know he had a collection. He and Mia can compare) In Stolac without too much trouble, they found the grave that they were tracking.

Next stop was Mostar. They were in search of a Jewish cemetery. The group had latitude and longitude (Degrees and minutes but not seconds). They parked in the middle of a neighborhood and spread out but no luck. The group went to a gas station to regroup and for Dan to wash his car after the one lane short cut.

Everyone decided to go to Mostar for lunch and to see the Old Bridge. Dan took the car via a tiny one lane road that required people to come out of their houses and wave Dan through. Debbie fought the urge to get on the bottom of the car. She also thinks that one should not believe everything GPS tells one.

Now here is where Debbie fell off the track with the bridge. It was destroyed in the war and rebuilt so Debbie thought some massive bridge with cars and people going over it. No, she was wrong. It is a pedestrian bridge with stalls on either side. It reminds Debbie of a middle eastern market. Debbie also feels that way too many people were on the bridge.

On the bridge, this man (who is way to old to have this job) in a speedo runs up and down asking for money for someone to jump off the bridge. He gets way to close in Debbie’s opinion actually the whole group’s opinion. He and his speedo get in people’s personal space. He doesn’t actually jump. He seems to be some type of accountant type collecting money. (Jennifer, Debbie forbids you to ever have a job like this). After the appropriate amount of money is collected some young guy comes out and jumps.

They ate lunch in Mostar and were sent based on a hot tip to the local cemetery. ( This cemetery has a flower store so that you can buy flowers for the cemetery. Open all the time. Just thought you might like that fact). Anyway Charlie’s German helped locate the Jewish cemetery. It was directly across from the gas station where the group had sat and discussed what to do. (Perhaps these people aren’t good candidates for the Amazing Race). The key to the cemetery was kept at the gas station. Debbie documented and posted a picture for the next person trying to find this.

Then back to Split bypassing shortcuts and one lane roads this time.

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Today was a day trip to Montenegro.   Cultural Moment:  Montenegro is a small country on the Adriatic Sea.  The name comes from a mountain covered with foliage so dense it makes the mountain appear to be black.  Montenegro means Black Mountain. (Full disclosure, the group wasn’t sure which mountain it was. Joyce also concurred that there were no black mountains that she could see. Maybe at night?)

 The trip began with the thought to eat breakfast on the road but once again the group was behind buses at the border. After crossing the border, they headed toward the sea to find a restaurant . (You know the feeling when you are not a zombie but everyone else is and they start slowly walking towards you. Yes, that kind of feeling is what they got.) They quickly jumped back in the car and decided to go back to the main road.

They stumbled on a breakfast deal of 5 Euro per person. Larry found a sausage that could not be cut.  He finally got one end off and figured out how to squeeze out the meat like a tube of toothpaste.  Check for Larry on innovation. (The readers should have the full eating experience).

Next was a beautiful drive around the Bay of Kotar.  They circled the bay until they got in a traffic jam for school pickup in the old city As best that can be determined if one has a child at school, you park your car and get out to get your child.  It doesn’t matter where you park or if you block a bus or an entire street. The school child seems to be a free parking ticket. Many stink eyes were thrown in the Old City.

Cats are also rampant.  Sunning themselves, stalking people. (Parker, Debbie is still true to you).

 There is a walk available up the old wall but the group decided against the walk.    They made the main square, ate, and found a cemetery. 

They took the ferry back across the Bay of Kotar.  It was judged a successful day as Debbie and Larry could now say that they had been to Montenegro (Debbie can now spell it correctly 30% of the time and Larry is not sure that he has been there. Try saying it 3 times really fast . Not so easy, huh?)

That night the four celebrated Charlie’s birthday by eating at the Taj Mahal. Nope, not Indian food but Bosnian food. (No one knows why the name). Charlie said that is was mood food for the next day. Guess where they are going tomorrow?

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It began as a nice overcast day with a chance of showers. The four met for breakfast with a day of shopping and sightseeing planned. Maybe the Jewish center, the funicular or walking by the water? Everyone was having the big breakfast except Debbie who opted for the healthy option. (Something she regretted once she saw the other meals.

As they ate breakfast, it began to lightly mist, then gradually a little heavier. Just as they paid and stood up, the skies opened and poured down, run for your life as the water rolled after the group down the street. The group took cover in the Jewish museum. They finally decided to just make a run for the house when the sales lady mentioned that she sold raincoats. Viola! Delta Force was formed.

The Delta Force team chose Charlie as team lead with the red coat. (Seriously, doesn’t this look like an awesome team). They suited up and slogged through water for the next 20 minutes. (Debbie hasn’t worn her shoes for the next 5 days. Charlie, Larry and Debbie retreated to their rooms for the rest of the day until that night for dinner.

Don hiked up to the top of the funicular later that afternoon. (Debbie said that she would have gone if she knew. Larry said that he felt there might be some stretching of the truth.

This is the street of the Jewish museum.