Month: October 2016

We haven’t really written much about the Venice flat.  It was very nice and  thought that we would provide a little more detail

On the Plus Side

1. No Stairs
2. Two real bathrooms where everything is together.  (IE. A toilet in the same room as the sink)
3. Far from the personal space invading horde
4. Twenty minute walk from St. Mark’s.
5. Five minute walk from the Vaporetta stop
6. Awesome drying rack for clothes
7. Close to markets and restaurants

There are as always some interesting challenges in adjusting to European life.

On the Minus Side

1. The anxiety inducing combined washer/dryer. While the Italian model is a step up from the Parisian model as it will open, it does have some issues.  It will allow one to wash and stop.  It is quite adamant that one can’t wash without drying.  If you try this, it gets all up in your face and washes the clothes again.  A total wash/dry cycle is 4 hours long.
2. People walk along the path outside your room and talk really loud.  It is like they have to touch your house to turn the corner.  (Debbie doesn’t understand why they can’t walk in the middle of the street there are no cars).  They talk really loudly all the time.  This goes on all night.

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3. The lady upstairs from Joyce cranks her clothesline in about 6 every morning and then cranks it back out with new clothes.  (Joyce finds this annoying)
4. Roulette Showers – While the hot water was high in temperature, you never knew how long it was going to last.  All of our participants had at least one shower than turned cold mid shower.  This can be especially annoying if one is covered in soap.  One can either stand there and wait it out or take the icy plunge.
5.   AND LAST but NOT LEAST – Mosquitoes.  

We had left the windows open because everyone else did.  We practiced opening windows sideways and from the top. We were ready.  The first day Debbie noticed that her arm itched.  That night a mosquito dive-bombed her kindle. (A clue perhaps?) The second day Debbie noticed that her arm and back were on fire when she got up.  After a mirror and some investigative work, she counted 17 bites (No, haters it was not bed bugs).  She knew it was more that one mosquito because if it was only one then that mosquito would be the size of a tennis ball and too heavy to fly.    Some of the others also confessed to bites.  After returning home for the day, the entire group went on a mosquito hunt.

First windows closed, everyone locked and loaded.  People conducted a room to room search for those bloodsuckers.  Everyone developed their own style.  Joyce was a spotter,  Larry popped with a towel, Greg, Jerry and Don were chair specialist.  Debbie clapped them in the air.  (Yes, she really did kill some with her hands. ) All together at least 15 kills were reported by the group.  Debbie did get a little intense about it constantly searching the walls and turning on lights in the middle of the night.  In fairness to Debbie, she did seem to be the most popular entree on the  5 star mosquito menu.  (She was worried that there was a trip advisor for mosquitos and she was in it.)

Once the mosquito population was brought under control, the group would recommend the flat.  Our current rankings are:

1.  Venice
2. Paris

 

 

Don was not feeling well on this day and decided to stay at the flat.  Greg ventured out with everyone to see the market and visit the shops.

First the group visited the market and the butcher’s shop.  Joyce had  selected some tasty looking sausage and was trying to decide how much to buy.  Debbie agreed that it looked good but wanted to check one thing (After all Debbie did read the tour book yesterday).  Debbie checked the name of the shop and ran back in waving at Joyce to get out of line.  They were definitely in the wrong shop. They slowly backed out of the shop waving and nodding to scurry down the street and far away.  Look at the pictures and see if you can determine the issue.  (You know it is not like the horse head was obvious or anything).

After that butcher incident, the group decided to buy lunch.  After cruising the prepared aisle, they ate lunch at 11:00.  (This was early for Debbie.  She has personal knowledge that kindergartners eat at 10:30 and feels soon she may be forced to eat with kindergartners).  Greg purchased pizza for himself and Don.  (Don, he left with 2 pieces for you.  We are doubtful that 2 made it back).

We want to keep our readers up with the church visits and several were visited today.  Greg opted out of the church hunt with the excuse that he was taking Don lunch and checking on him.  The others received a text about an hour later that Don needed some beach time to help his recovery and that they were going to the beach.

The additional visits today included:

• Chiesa di San Giacomo dell’Orio Church  – History Moment: They don’t know where it go the name and it is old. (Debbie provided the history moment – she had tour guide withdrawal issues)  It was founded in the 9th century and rebuilt in 1225.
• San Stae History Moment -An abbreviation for Saint Eustachius was founded at the beginning of the 11th century and reconstructed in the 17th century, and has a main facade (1709) on the Grand Canal of Venice. (Debbie’s tour – there are all sorts of art things and the tomb of a guy that gave lots of money but they put skeletons on his tombstone.  That just doesn’t seem right)
• Casa di Carlo Goldoni  – Playwright Carlo Goldoni was born in this Venetian Gothic casa in 1707.  The collection contains manuscripts, paintings, and objects relating to Goldoni. A visit here gives you the chance  experience a more modest home. (Debbie Tour:  We don’t know if we went here or not but think so – It is about a theater guy and there are scenes of his plays and puppets).
• Gelato Break – We got really tired from all the cultural stuff (Readers have asked for more food shots)
• Ca’ Rezzonico is a palazzo on the Grand Canal. It is a public museum dedicated to 18th-century Venice (Debbie Tour – Full of stuff and costumes.  Don’t ask her about it. )

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Greg and Don were back from the beach by the time that the others returned.  (Has anyone else ever heard of “Beach Time” as a medicinal cure?  The others were suspicious of this action.  They believe that they were dumped.)

The goal today was to visit Frari’s Church.  The group started out at St. Mark’s square to follow Rick Steve’s walk.  Joyce turned to Debbie handed her the book and said “You get to figure out where we are going today”.  Debbie was ready this time (After some furious reading of the tour book in St. Mark’s square).  She whipped the book up in the air, told the group to line up, counted her group, and marched them off.  (Debbie had been exposed to too many tour groups in Venice.  Joyce might have made a serious mistake).

Some of the sights that the fabulous tour guide led them to where the following:

• The Chiesa di San Moisè is a Baroque style, Roman Catholic church in Venice.  (Debbie’s tour – this is a real old church)
• Exterior Stair Case – This is an example of exterior staircases connected to villas (Debbie’s tour:  We could walk up those but it is closed.  I am not sure all you people could make it to the top and the ambulance is a boat.)
• History Moment:  Rialto Bridge – The current structure was built in just three years, between 1588 and 1591, as a permanent replacement for the boat bridge and three wooden bridges that had spanned the Grand Canal at various times since the 12th Century.  Shops line the bridge and walkway. (Debbie’s tour:  This is a real old bridge with lots of shops.  I hope you have money to spend because Les Cheap Girls spent all their money yesterday.  By the way, the tour guide takes tips).
• History Moment – San Giacomo di Rialto  is the oldest church in the city, supposedly consecrated in the year 421.  (Debbie’s tour – this church is really, really old and has a musical display)

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While the tour guide told her group to take a break, Don and Greg disappeared.  It was reported by another tour member (Larry) that they had left to drink some wine before continuing on to Friar church.  Debbie was quite concerned that people needed a drink to complete the tour.  The group that stayed with the tour guide proceeded to a square to wait for Greg and Don.  Larry and Jerry made friends wit the locals while waiting (See picture).  Turned out, Don was at the pharmacy waiting in line for his consultation with the pharmacist.  Once the tour guide had her group back together, they proceeded to the Frari Church.

History Moment:  The Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, usually just called the Frari. One of the greatest churches in the city, it has the status of a minor basilica.  The church is dedicated to the Assumption. As with many Venetian churches, the exterior is rather plain. (Debbie’s tour:  I like this church and it let’s you take pictures).

After the Frari, the tour guide had arranged a concert for the group at Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Tour group, A mistake was made, it was not a church after all).   The group began the concert but everyone had bailed by the end of the 2nd song.  (The tour guide had to give the stink-eye to Greg and Don for making noise.  They may not remember this).

After the concert, the others made their way back home, they were thrilled with the tour and gave Debbie’s 5’s on Trip advisor. (Debbie just made that up.  She did after all lose part of the tour group.  However, she is still waiting for her tips.)

After a brief rest, the group was off to visit the Doge Palace at night.  Once again, hats off to Joyce for signing the group up for this.  No crowds to contend with and fewer selfie sticks at night.  Unfortunately, Greg and Don could not get into the Doge.  Their tickets were rejected.  (Special note: The others went on the tour but Don & Greg, we stand united with you.  Just ignore the comment about how great the Doge was at night.  It was really not that great…)

 

The group got an early start to Murano.  It was foggy and not very crowded when we arrived.  Cultural Moment:  Murano glass is made on the  island of Murano.  Murano’s glassmakers led Europe for centuries, developing or refining many technologies including crystalline glass, enamelled glass, glass with threads of gold,  multicolored glass, milk glass, and imitation gemstones made of glass. Today, the artisans of Murano are still employing these centuries-old techniques, crafting everything from contemporary art glass and glass figurines to Murano glass chandeliers and wine stoppers, as well as tourist souvenirs.  (And Debbie and Joyce looked at them all).

After landing, the group visited a free glass blowing demonstration.  After this point, Les Cheap Girls discovered all the shops.   There are many, many shops in Murano and each a little different.  Each a potential bargain.  Greg also threw himself into the shopping but he can never be a Les Cheap Girl.  Greg was invited into the backrooms only accessible by personal invitation with very expensive glassware.  He was introduced to the owner and artist.  (Debbie and Joyce were not invited and once Joyce was asked why she was going up the stairs after Greg. Clearly, Greg is not Les Cheap Girls material).  They visited stores all day with a break for lunch.  Larry and Jerry decided to leave in the afternoon to take an extended vaporetti ride around the islands.  (Remember how we mentioned that you need to know the correct route number well, they didn’t.  Let’s call it Jerry and Larry’s excellent adveture).  By late afternoon,  still no major purchases by Joyce and Debbie.  (Greg had purchased something 5 minutes after the boat landed.  Don’t deny it Greg, you  know that you did).  At 3:45, Joyce called time and said that it was time to purchase before the stores closed.  The two split up and completed purchases by 4:15.  Done – hands in the air – Done – Les Cheap Girls Gone Wild purchasing.

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The group started their day at the Musco Archeologico Nazionale.  Culture Moment:  It holds a collection of ancient sculptures, including Greek originals, bronzes, ceramics, gems and coins in addition to the archaeological collection on loan  which includes Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiquities.  The museum is part of St. Mark’s square.  Official name of the square is Piazza San Marco.

On a side note, St. Mark’s Square  has hordes of people.  Everyday cruise ships dock and dump people into the square to see St. Mark’s.    Most of our group has tried to stay away from the square.  If you have a dream of sitting on an Italian Square, St. Mark’s intends to answer that dream.  People were playing the violin and piano at 9 in the morning so that you could drink coffee on the square watching  people.  There are pigeons so fat from all the feeding that they don’t  fly anymore.  There are vendors to sell all kinds of things.

At 11:00, Joyce lined everyone up and marched them through St. Mark’s square for the “Skip the Line” tour of St. Mark’s Basilica.  (Excellent value for 2 euro) We marched by all the people standing in line.  (It was awesome).  Then they turned the lights on inside (They don’t keep the Basilica lit all day)  and Joyce lined us up for the free (yes free) English tour.

Since no pictures, Longer History Moment:  The story goes that Mark, one the four Evangelists together with Luke, Mathew and John, was given the task of writing his Gospel by Peter himself and did so in Rome.  Venetian merchants often stopped at Alexandria to pray on the Saint Mark’s tomb. In 828 A.D., two Venetian merchants stole Saint Mark’s remains and brought them back to Venice by ship, after hiding them in a chest full of vegetables and pork to avoid strict Muslim control. When the saint’s body reached Venice it was welcomed in triumph and the Doge had a new church built as his tomb.  Owning a saint’s remains meant great earnings for a city. Veneration, at times of just a few bones, meant increased trade and cultural exchange. Furthermore, there are twelve Apostles, but only four Evangelists. Owning the entire body of one of them was an exceptional fact for Venice.

The English tour told the group interesting facts but once complete, they were free to complete the tour.  The free entry  line went something like this, get in line, shuffle in a counter clockwise direction through the church with an opportunity to purchase special admission and then exit.   Evidently, the group does not do well on their own.  Once released, they tried to go in the exit and into an area where a door had been left open.  The attendant was chasing them through the church (maybe he called it fast walking),  yelling “No, No, No” and clapping his hands at them.  (People should be more careful about leaving doors open).  It is an outstanding church but the group would have been disappointed if they had only done the St. Mark Shuffle.  Joyce did an outstanding job arranging the tour.

In our opinion, there are way too many people invading people’s personal space at St. Mark’s.  It makes Larry quack like a duck (Did we mention the quacking phenomena?) and Debbie photo bomb.  Jerry remains stoic and Joyce sometimes has been known to strongly suggest people move (We think that she might be Italian).  Greg and Don just have more wine.

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San Maria Della Salute – Guarding the entrance to the Grand Canal, this 17th-century domed church was commissioned by Venice’s plague survivors as thanks for salvation.

Santa Maria del Rosario (Gesuati) – The church of Gesuati, the biggest convent complex of the XVIII century in Venice, was built between 1726 and 1735 for the Dominicans, to replace the church alongside that had become too small for the faithful.

At the end of the day, we were all happy to ride the water bus even if it did whack the dock.

 

On our first full day in Venice, Larry woke up with a sore throat and decided to bypass the morning.  He sent Debbie off with instructions to not come back without sore throat medicine.

The rest of the group proceeded to the Palazzo Ducale.  History Moment: What is a Doge?  (No, it is not a dog). The title “doge” was the title of the senior-most elected official of Venice.  Venice was a maritime empire.  It seems to have been a big deal to be the doge.  A Doge was elected for life and got to wear a nice red cape in all the pictures.  He was the head but had no real power.  He had to live in the Palazzo Ducale and couldn’t leave Venice.  A Grand Chancellor was also elected from the middle class to oversee the secrets of the Council.  To make sure the Grand Chancellor didn’t sell the secrets, he was paid $700,000 a year as a salary.  (No one could afford to buy a secret so basically was paid to be honest).

The group took the The Secret Itinerary tour through the Palace which covers the rooms and chambers where the delicate work of some of the most important bodies in the Venetian administration was carried out.  (Remember that Grand Chancellor?).  Turns out the Grand Chancellor and his staff had dumpy rooms.  The nobles had fancy rooms to work in while the middle class did not.  The tour included the prison (Debbie was not impressed), the bridge of sighs (You sigh as you go to prison, and Casanova’s jail cell).  Basically, you knew about those rooms if you were going to jail or worked in the “No heat or no cooling” part of the building.

The next concern was lunch.  We were all very stressed as we got into the maze of shops behind St. Mark’s square.  Joyce had one friend that got lost and couldn’t get out for 4 hours.  With the groups tendency to get lost, you realize that this could be a problem.  We were on the hunt for “Aldo’s Take Out Pasta”  We found the street and were searching.  Joyce asked in a shop for Aldo’s.  The lady yelled down the street “Hey Aldo someone is looking for you”.

A man standing in his doorway yelled back “Who is looking for me?”

Joyce yelled back “I am”.  Thus we were committed to Take Out Pasta.  You pick the sauce and noodles.  (Actually, Aldo picks out the noodles for you.  You can ask for a certain noodle but Aldo will tell you what type of noodle that you should actually have.  Only Jerry was brave enough to override Aldo on noodle selection.  Jerry swears that his choice was better but we have our doubts).  We got noodles to go for our “Man Down” to deliver with  pharmacy goods.

Debbie was in a quandary as to how to communicate sore throat to the pharmacist.  She envisioned pantomiming a sore throat.  At the pharmacy, she discovered that everyone must queue for consultation with the pharmacist.  (No, you can’t just find it and pick it up).  She stood in line behind a lady with her dog until her turn.  Debbie whipped out her handy phone and showed him “medicina mal di gola? (Sore throat medicine? Are you impressed are what?  Larry was not as impressed with Debbie’s ingenuity as she thought he should have been).   With a lot of head nodding, the decision  came down to spray or suck?  Debbie took the easy road and decided both but had to convince the pharmacist that is was okay to have both.  She finally just said “My husband” and shrugged.  He said “Oh, okay” and sold both to her.  At first, Larry was not really impressed  but now is talking about moving to Venice for the special throat spray.  (He really liked the flip up spray nozzle and might show it to you if you ask.)

Larry was able to venture out in the afternoon and the group took a tour of the Grand Canal.  (Debbie said it was all possible because of the wonderful medicine from the pharmacy.  Larry rolled his eyes.)

Venice does not have any cars so you either travel by foot or by boat.  There are different classes of boats.

• Gondolas –  The most traditional boat where someone rows you around in a striped shirt and sings to you.  Cost:  80 to 100 Euros for 40 minutes (No singing included – They will take pictures with you)
• Water Taxi – Higher speed flashier boat (Larry and Greg would prefer the flashy boat but costs are high).  Cost:  70 euro or more from airport to hotel
• Water Bus (Vaporetti) – water buses are the equivalent of buses and subways on dry land. The public-transportation authority in Venice, operates vaporetti and other water buses around the clock, with a fleet of 150 boats and routes that extend into the far corners of the Venetian Lagoon.  Weekly pass: 60 Euro

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I bet that you can guess which option Les Cheap Girls chose.  There will be no gondola pictures.  Yes, you are correct – A Vaporetti

Here is the procedure for riding a Vaporetti (water bus).

1. Find a vaporetti station.  This can be confusing and hard to do in twisty streets.  Look up if you get lost.  (This is not obvious to all of the group – actually hardly any of the group.  We run and up and down streets a lot and some do not know the meaning of Vaporetti.  In fact, Debbie just tested Larry and he failed.)
2. Figure out which direction to go.  Joyce is an expert.  The others have failed at this repeatedly causing some long, long rides around the island.  (Larry and Jerry call them scenic).
3. Check the validity of your card.  Rumor is that it just sometimes stops working leading to a 60 euro fine.  (Fortunately, this has not occurred to our group.  However, the lady at the airport told us to do this).
4. Walk onto the loading dock.  You may need your sea legs as it can rock and roll
5. If you see the boat coming,  push and crowd up to the door
6. BRACE YOURSELF as the boat will whack the dock and send you staggering across the loading area (This is often a good way to meet your Italian neighbors)
7. Let others get off the boat  (Actually the boat guy makes you wait but it sounded better if we acted like we were waiting)
8. Load the boat (Remember those how many people can you get in a Volkswagen bug challenges?  Similar to that.  The boat holds 100 to 200 people that all prefer to stand by the door)
9. Boat guy yells at you to move into the boat
10. Walk in and look sad that they are no seats for you (Except for Joyce that will sit in the handicap seats and was kicked out by two ladies on crutches.  Joyce was very gracious but she did get the nod).
11. Find a handhold quickly as the boat will again whack the dock a couple of time on the way out.  (Usually a teeth jarring whack designed to wake all sleeping passengers and knock standing people down.)
12. Watch everyone who looks like they might be getting off at the next stop so that you can score a seat.  (Debbie is really good at this.  Debbie will even crawl over Italians giving her the stink-eye.  Today she refused to give up an aisle seat and made two large men crawl over her.  She thinks that she could be Italian. )
13. If you are still standing at the next stop and haven’t scored a set yet, remember to hold on as the boat whacks the dock a couple of times arriving and leaving.  (Debbie thinks the boat guys try to see how many they can knock over at a stop).
14. When your stop is near, jump up, crowd the front and hold on to something as you try to walk through the boat
15. Get off the boat
16. Kiss the ground

Greg’s first response when he stepped on the floating dock “This is risky…”  He and Joyce then exited to stand on firm ground.  Debbie bravely remained on the dock.  (Remember Joyce and Debbie had to wear buckets around their neck on one memorable Hawaiian boat trip).

There is currently a contest between boat riders and walkers as to who can get to a destination first.  The score is 1 to 1.  Debbie was concerned about boat safety until Joyce told her that she could walk to shore if there was a problem.  (Debbie is unsure of Joyce’s facts but does not intend to test the theory).

The taxi showed up in Paris on time and everyone headed for the airport and the next stop.  Luckily, the group did not go back to Zombieland (Charles DeGaulle) but Orly.  The group flew on Transavia Airlines but Debbie kept thinking Transylvania Airlines in her head.  This part of the trip was relatively easy except for the 5.50 euro that Debbie got charged for her soft drink and Larry’s coffee.  She learned her lesson and will not wake Larry again to ask if he wants anything.  The airline was so clever.  They waited until one took a sip and then said “That will be 5.50.”  All the passengers scrambled for money. Lucky for them, Joyce slept through the drinks.

Once we arrived in Venice, the airport was packed and really loud.  Guess where some of the Hare Krishna’s have gone?  Yep, Venice airport.    It was a total flashback experience for the older set.  Once they found the correct person, Joyce had it under control.  The group picked up their transportation passes for the week and were off to a private water taxi.  After about 10 minutes walking, they arrived at the boat dock.  Larry and Greg kept hoping for a flashy wooden boat.  (Debbie’s description – Theirs was something like a classic mahogany cruiser.)  They did not get the classic boat.

Once the boat arrived, the luggage was loaded, people scrambled on and ran to the back except for Debbie and Jerry.    The people in the back laughed, waved, and took pictures.  Debbie on the other hand was most distressed.  (Jerry was sympathetic and tried to keep Debbie calm). The driver had placed her luggage in a perilous position.  In her opinion, it was halfway or more out of the boat.   Every time the boat hit a wave, the boat bounced.  Every time the boat bounced, the people in the back squealed and laughed.  Debbie’s bag also bounced going airborne causing Debbie to cover her eyes, wring her hands and moan “No, No, No”.  She knew if the luggage went over the side of the boat that those 38.5 pounds of luggage were going to sink to the bottom of the canal and she would not have any clothes.  Each time she suggested to the driver that the bag should be moved.  He waved his hands and said “No”.  She had even decided what she would need to buy, who she would yell at, requested compensation value and the compensation settlement value.

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The new flat is very nice.  They were ecstatic to have a toilet and shower in the same room.  They also said farewell to the circular stairs of death. (Hopefully, these will not reappear.) We felt quite Italian with laundry hanging in the streets.  We strolled down to eat and shop for groceries.  After a leisurely meal, we went to the Coop grocery store.  What a shocker!  Before we sat down to eat, there were no people in the grocery store.  When we finished, it was packed.  Do you remember the game pacman?  Imagine a fast paced pacman except pacman was dragging a rolling basket behind them, blocking pathways, and whacking you in the legs.  After about 20 minutes, Jerry, Larry and Debbie broke free and stood outside in stunned awe.  They all kept repeating “I’m never going in again..I’m never going in again.”  Eventually, the others were also spit out of the maze.  Everyone had some recovery gelato before limping home.