Month: September 2023

Larry’s foot and knee still had him down so did not wander out.

They stayed close to Piazza Napoleone.

Historic moment: September 5, 1944 – Lucca Liberation day. The soldiers of the Fifth Army, 92nd Infantry Division, called the Buffalo Soldiers, entered through Porta San Pietro and reached Piazza Napoleone. (Our windows looked down on this plaza.) Here they met the citizens of Lucca in celebration when, with the Allies close, the Germans had abandoned the city.

Because of this Lucca avoided the shelling and bombardments Unfortunately, the Nazis implemented their strategy of “aggressive retreat”. Wehrmacht snipers, hidden in bell towers outside the city walls, such as that of the Church of San Marco, in houses and in the football stadium, shot citizens celebrating the liberation or guarding the city gates. History is all around us in the old city.

During the day Joyce told Debbie about a special type of pastry (donut) that was popular in Lucca called Nelli. They looked like the Hawaiian malasadas which Debbie especially likes. They found the Nelli wagon on the Piazza Napoleone. One can see it from the kitchen window. They found Debbie there a lot staring out the window.

They first stop, St. Martin’s Cathedral for the day. Some kind of moment: It is a Catholic cathedral dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours. Construction was begun in 1063. A legend as to why columns of the façade are different. The story says when they were going to decorate it, the people of Lucca announced a contest for the best column. Each artist made a column, but then the people of Lucca decided to take them all, without paying the artists and used all the columns.

The tower has only 212 steps up a staircase with a nice handle to grip in order to see great views of Lucca. Of course, you can’t see the views until you are able to stand up and stop gasping. Plus someone may have to help you pry your hand off the handrail.

The next stop was inside the church and the museum. As always amazing things to see. Shout out picture to son-in-laws, Daniel and Aaron, who hopefully will see the shout sometime in October.

When they arrived back home, Joyce purchased a Nelli for everyone and a chocolate cake. Talk about a sugar high. Nelli review …Fried a little bit too long, so Debbie has cut back on her time at the window.

Historic Moment: Lucca is known as an Italian (City of Art) because of its intact Renaissance-era city walls and its very well preserved historic center, where, among other buildings and monuments, are located.

The group left Larry at the apartment and started exploring the city. The Chiesa di San Michele i Foro was two blocks away from where they stayed. History Moment: San Michele is a Roman Catholic basilica church built over the ancient Roman forum. The group is staying two blocks from San Michele and within the walled city which is well maintained.

The streets are narrow and one has to watch out for cars and bikes. Debbie is convinced that she will be taken out by a bike. No one rings their bike bell and the bikes often ride close to the walkers. It is a game of chicken or similar to Native American counting coup. Educational Moment: Key to a man’s success in Plains Indian combat was demonstrating courage by proving superiority over one’s opponent by counting coup. This was best accomplished by charging the enemy on foot or horseback to get close enough to touch or strike him with the hand, a weapon, or a “coupstick.” Debbie feels that there may be some counting coup going on with bikes charging the walkers.

The three walked through the city, visited some churches and purchased desserts for everyone to try out. They ended the day with a walk around the city on the wall with the residents and all of the city’s dogs.

They are happy to report no bikes hit them today.

Today was our move from Levanto to Lucca. The owner of the apartment drove the suitcases to the train station where the group met him. Debbie and Larry’s luggage were lighter but still a challenge going up the stairs (no elevator or ramp). Everyone wrestled their baggage on the train and off they went to Lucca or so they thought.

Everyone was fine and they were have a nice train ride. Suddenly, Jerry jumped up and started shouting this is our stop which it was. Unfortunately, the group was sort of asleep at the wheel. Every last one of them. They ran as quickly as possible as you can dragging a suitcase down the aisle of a train to the door bumping seats along the way to the door but the first door went open nor the second. Then the train started to slowly move. The four stood there looking at each other as the speed built up on their to Pisa . Duh, all you people need to watch the stops. Joyce got on her phone to look for alternate solutions.

They stood all the way to Pisa. Debbie volunteered to get off last in Pisa to the other passengers standing around her prompting them to volunteer to get her bags off the train. Larry was happy about that.

Joyce proceeded to the ticket office in Pisa while the others waited patiently and tried not to offer too many suggestions to Joyce. It was hard as they all like to help.
They were soon on another train headed to Lucca. When they got to Lucca, it was about a 10 to 15 minute walk which doesn’t sound bad unless you are in a medieval walled city with cobblestones and a two wheel suitcase. Debbie consoled herself that she and her suitcase were marching the path were Roman wheels had rolled. Debbie reports that it really didn’t help much.

Joyce had warned everyone no elevator and it was on floor 2 which is different as in Europe as floors start with level zero. They had all acknowledged no elevators but not really in their heads. Debbie and Larry worked as a team. One at each end of a bag. As Debbie and Larry drug bags up the 52 steps, it turned out Debbie didn’t care about retracing Roman tracks and she can use colorful language aka cuss like a sailor

Once they arrived the climb was worth it but when it is time to go Debbie will just kicking her bag down the stairs.

Today was the hike from Levanto to Monterosso. This hike started at the top and went downhill. Debbie declined because she felt bad about Larry’s previous injury and her phone being dead while this happened even though he didn’t call. Most of all she didn’t want to hike in the sun. (Remember the lips).

Jerry and Joyce went on a hike from Levanto to Monterosso. They started in town and hiked downhill to Monterosso. Joyce said the trail was narrow in certain places. More confirmation of a good choice for Debbie. Once she saw the trail pictures, Debbie could just see herself tumbling down the hill in an attempt to outdo Larry. Then who would go to the pharmacy?

Debbie went for a walk on the beach. She felt happy in her choice.

Today the group discovered that screen mirroring worked plus it was raining a bit so the group watched TV which turned into a Tom Cruise Marathon. They ended up taking a day off.

HHR: What have you all learned so far?

Larry: I’ve made many new friends in the Italian post office

Joyce: Debbie and I don’t do a good job posing. We need those tube dresses and to point our toes.

Debbie: I’ve increased my skills with Google translate and think others should practice

Jerry: I like the Italian food and don’t do translate.

Larry I have noticed the smells. The perfume is especially strong

Debbie: Even I can smell it and I can’t smell.. I have continued my streak of visiting a pharmacy in every country that I visit . Usually not for me but as a representative for Larry. I also did not know Tom Cruise did a remake of the Mummy. I refused to watch that one.

Our Hard Hitting Reporter (HHR) is here to moderate the Ferry discussion and update us on Larry’s day in Levanto.

HHR: Larry, is it true that you did not go on the Ferry extravaganza because Debbie was going and you were tired of telling her to get out of the sun.

Larry: Well, no that is not exactly correct. My foot was still bothering me and I decided not to go. You do know that I live with Debbie and have to go home to her?

HHR: Jerry who went on the ferry trip?

Jerry: Joyce, Debbie and I went on a ferry ride. We visited the villages in Cinque Terre

Joyce: Cinque Terre translates into five lands which is five traffic free villages on the Italian Riveria. The cities are on the coast and come down to the bay. The five cities are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare.

HHR: I heard that you got a ticket in Levanto?

Joyce: Yes, we bought a day ticket and a 3 island tour.

HHR: Is it true that Debbie had to sit alone?

Debbie: Hey, I am right here. I did sit alone but because of the sun. Plus I sat next to the lifeboat. Also people kept getting in my safe zone trying to take pictures. When I was on the Island tour, I sat downstairs with the cool teenagers and could go sit on the very front of the boat.

Joyce: Wait what? You got to sit in the front of the boat outside? I didn’t know this.

Debbie: Yes and it was in the shade

HHR: Should Debbie not have been outside? Should the captain have kicked her off the boat?

Jerry: Let’s talk about lunch: We ate in Portovenere past the last city. We watched employees eat a full Italian lunch with starters, first meal, second meal and dessert. We aren’t sure if they could stay awake that afternoon.

Joyce: Next we rode the boat to Riomaggiore and walked into town.

HHR: Did you see the cliff jumpers?

Debbie: I wish that you could have been there for a jump into the sea?

Joyce: Next we went to Manarola and had gelato. We also watched the cliff jumpers. Debbie especially liked the gelato.

HHR: Larry how was your day?

Larry: Well, I took some good pictures but I had an incident. I was walking around and a piece of stray concrete jumped out at me and took me down.

HHR: What does this mean?

Larry: It means that I tripped on it, fell down and skinned my knee.

HHR: Oh, Larry, I am so sorry no one was with you. It’s too bad that it didn’t happen to someone more deserving like Debbie.

Today was a lazy day as everyone got up late (at least for Joyce and Jerry). They typically get up at the crack of dawn. The group ate a late lunch and played with their new found freedom from all Italian speaking tv. Did you know that show availability on Netflix and Prime is different in Europe?

Debbie and Joyce decided to go to the beach. They felt that they were Mediterranean beach worthy. Joyce was able to show off her negotiation skills for a better deal for 2 chairs and an umbrella. (It’s not like the guy was busy. Both got their feet wet but the sand is actually little rocks and aren’t fun to be pelted with. The water has a rock bottom so you have to watch where you step.

They thought that they were going to see an exciting Baywatch style water rescue. The life guard went running down the beach into the water and grabbed a lady’s arm. With assist from a couple of people, the life guard got her up and showed the lady the proper entrance to the bay through the rocks which seemed to solve the issue.

The beaches had very few vendors approaching beach goers. There was one lady with her equipment offering massages on the beach. The two passed.

Most exciting of all was that they found green sea glass. What is sea glass you ask? Educational Moment: Sea glass is physically and chemically weathered glass found on beaches along bodies of salt water. These weathering processes produce natural frosted glass. Joyce and Debbie were the most excited by the green sea glass. Of course, they did realize that they were probably looking at green beer bottle glass. It did keep Debbie entertained for the afternoon as she envisioned beer bottles being tossed off the yachts.

Jerry and Joyce had a serious hike lined up for today. They were hiking from Levanto to Monterosso. It was a 3 hour hike. Larry was still resting his foot so declined. Debbie also declined as it was mostly in full sunlight and she was still recovering. She had a mesmerizing effect with her lips from the first burn and wasn’t sure what another dose would do.

For Debbie and Larry, it was post office day. They had packed their boxes, filled out forms and were ready to post. They gathered up all their euros and began the march to the Levanto post office. This was not the one where Debbie had gotten the boxes with no customers. No, that was 45 minutes away. This post office was the main branch in Levanto with customers taking a number to be serviced. Of course, they didn’t know that. They also figured out that not many English speaking people visited the post office.

Some of the customers helped the pair get the correct number and line up. It took Debbie awhile to figure out that the numbering was who had been served not who needed to be served. You can imagine the postal employee’s excitement when those two rolled up to his window. The clerk, who will be called Marco, was very patient. There was a lot of google translate, hand waving, head nodding and consultation with supervisors. After 45 minutes, one package was done. Another 15 minutes and the second was done. Total time was one hour. Smiles all around and waving and Marco released them. Each had reduced the weight by at least 10 pounds. Bring it!

In celebration, the two went to the salami and cheese shop. There was more Google translate, hand waving, and nodding. They couldn’t figure out how much to order and what unit of measurement. They finally told the guy to cut until they said stop and extrapolated back. Debbie even agreed to sheep cheese.

They continued their post office celebration by walking around and eating calamari and chips along with some fish.

To top off the day, Joyce and Jerry came back with focaccia bread for dinner. Focaccia is a type of Italian yeast bread baked in flat sheet pans. Focaccia dough is flavored with olive oil and sometimes topped with herbs and other vegetables. The two broke out the cheese and salami. Debbie likes the bread a lot.

Debbie thinks that the packages will get there after they return home possibly 2024 or never.

Just to recap, the group arrived in Levanto the day before. In case you did not catch it, Debbie and Larry had decided that they overpacked to ride the trains. They were sad. They couldn’t throw bags on the train like long shoremen anymore.

where is Levanto? It is a small coastal town located in La Spezia province of northwest Italy. It is by the Ligurian Sea which is an arm of the Mediterranean Sea. It lies between the Italian Riviera (Ligiria) and the island of Corsic. So we were vacationing on the Mediterranean and using Levanto as a base to explore Cinque Terre (more on that later). You can say “my friends are on the Mediterranean Beaches now”. Children, it would make your parents sound cool.

Education Moment: Levanto goes back to Roman times when it was called Ceula. The town’s location was important due to its harbor but that importance changed in the 13th century. (we don’t know why). Throughout the Middle Ages, Levanto changed hands and changed names and once again became known as an important seaport.

Larry decided to take the day off as his foot was bothering him. It would be hard to keep up with the other spry and quick travel partners. The other three took off to find the beach and walk to Bonassola via the old railroad tunnels. The sea was only a block away. There were also two free beaches along the way.

As they walked down the trail, it seemed that every retired person within miles were walking or riding a bike to the beaches. It was like they were coming out of the hills as if mesmerized. Debbie wondered if they had heard that she was in town. The only person within miles that was not tan that never would be tan. The person with scabs on her lips.

When they arrived in Bonassola, Debbie saw a sign. A yellow sign that said “Poste Italiane”. The Italian Post Office…It was the way. A way to send home the extra stuff. Debbie purchased two big boxes. Debbie thinks that the postal lady felt sorry for her because she gave her tape. (The scabs….they are mesmerizing). So Debbie and the others began the slow walk back (with boxes) through the caves and retirees to the apartment.

Larry was overjoyed to receive his giant yellow box. Let the packing begin!

An extra bonus, they got Netflix to work, English subtitles and Apple TV. Big tech day.

Today was a travel day to the next location, Levanto, Italy. We felt confident that we would catch the train early timewise and early in the route to Milan as the exchange point. Boy, were we ever wrong. The train was packed, the rows filled and no assigned seating. Joyce could wrangle the suitcases and found a seat. Debbie gave a stink eye to a teenage girl who was laying across two seats and took the one that she moved her feet off of. Larry and Jerry stood all the way to Milan.

Joyce once again had the instructions but walking through the train station was a challenge. You had to dodge dogs, suitcases and people as you rolled to a different track. The next train was better but we discovered no ramp or elevator to exit.

Luckily, our VRBO owner drove our luggage to the apartment. They were happy to be at the end of a travel day.